There are some dishes that actually scream, “I’m in season. Quick, eat me right now”. In July, it’s crunchy, creamy, corn on the cob. In August it’s juice dripping down your chin tomatoes freshly plucked from the garden. And in June, tah dah…it’s strawberries. Not strawberries as you know them from the rest of the year, but the real deal, locally grown, sweetened by the same sun that shines on you strawberries. Strawberries so good, they make you forget winter. Magic strawberries, indeed.

We have about four weeks of good strawberry eating and though I have been known to make a jar or two of strawberry jam once in a while, I’m mostly a fan of eating them naked, just as they are. But when family arrives for sunday dinners, it’s time to make that summertime dish of dreams and memories, strawberry shortcake.

 Because shortcake as usual is a little bland, I can’t resist perking it up with a little orange zest. But keep in mind shortcake’s major function, after all, is to act as a sponge. Though it may seem like sacrilege to douse these perfect berries with sugar, I love the juicy sauce that ensues. It softens the berries a bit and enables the shortcake to perform its ordained job of sopping up all the sweet/red juice. To make matters even more delicious, I pair the shortcake and berries with a scoop or two of buttermilk ice cream. Even if you don’t really like to drink buttermilk, you can’t let that minor detail stop you from trying it. A frozen custard, really, this ice cream is rich with egg yolks and heavy cream. The perfect icy, creamy, tangy accompaniment, buttermilk ice cream just might turn out be the strawberry’s new best friend.

So, don’t hesitate to create your own summer memory on a plate. Whether you buy them at a farmer’s market or pick them yourself, search out your own magic berries in the next few weeks and make this delicious dessert for family, friends or just for you and you alone. Quick. Eat strawberries right now.

Kitchen Counter Point: There are two important points in making the best shortcake. 1) It’s important to start with cold butter. That way, some of the little nubs of butter remain in the dough and help to puff it when they steam and melt in the oven. If you use warm butter it will be completely rubbed into the dough and the shortcakes will be heavy like  hockey pucks. 2) The next step is to add the buttermilk and just mix until it comes together. You don’t want to work it too much at this point as the gluten in the flour will become activated and become tough. Toss with a fork or your hands until the dough just comes together, then pat it out on a floured surface and cut into triangles. It’s so easy.

2 pints strawberries
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Pinch salt

Shortcakes
1 1/2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, log quartered and diced into small squares
Zest of 1 orange
1/2 cup buttermilk plus 1 tablespoon, divided
2 tablespoons coarse sugar like Sugar in the Raw or granulated sugar

Buttermilk Ice Cream, recipe follows

Preheat oven to 350ºF

Wash the strawberries and hull and slice them. Add them to a medium bowl and combine with the 1/3 cup sugar and lemon juice. Stir and set the strawberries in the fridge for at least 1 hour and up to 3 hours so that the sugar has a chance to pull the juices from the strawberries and make a nice juicy sauce.

Add the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl and stir with a whisk or fork to combine. Add the butter and orange zest and squish together with the tips of your fingers until the mixture is crumbly. Add the 1/2 cup buttermilk and quickly combine with a fork until it forms a mass. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and pat into a circle about 1-inch thick. Cut crosswise into 6 triangles and transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet. Brush the tops with the remaining tablespoon of buttermilk and sprinkle the coarse sugar over the tops. Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes or until golden. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely.

To serve, slice the shortbreads horizontally and place the bottoms on a small plate. Spoon the strawberries and juice over the shortcake and replace the top. Serve with buttermilk ice cream and swoon.

Buttermilk Ice Cream

2 cups heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 cups buttermilk
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Add the cream to a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.

While the cream heats, whisk together the yolks, sugar and salt together in a medium bowl. When the cream is hot, slowly pour it into the yolks while beating them with a whisk. Transfer the cream/egg mixture back to the pan and cook over medium heat until thickened slightly (don’t boil) about 3 minutes. Pour the custard into a large, clean, heat-proof bowl and cool to room temperature. Whisk in the buttermilk and lemon juice and chill the ice cream base until very cold (see tip). Freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions. Most will tell you to transfer the ice cream to a container and freeze it until it is firm, at least 4 hours, but I never have time for that. Besides, I like it soft, smooth and creamy and serve it straight from the ice cream maker bowl. Serve with strawberry short cakes or anything else that you want to be out of this world delicious.

Tip: I usually make ice cream the day I’m going to use it, so I’ve come up with a way to chill the base fast. Pour it into a 9x 13 metal pan and place in the freezer. Check every 30 minutes or so and give it a stir. Remove it before it begins to set up and process it in the ice cream maker. If it begins to set up and freeze, let it warm up a bit in the fridge. If you add it to the ice cream maker too cold, it can freeze up too fast on the outside edges and jam the machine.

This morning the view outside my kitchen window resembled a black and white photograph…white snow, black tree silhouettes and a gray sky. Though that isn’t always such a bad thing, today I felt the need to inject a little color into my life. I was in the mood to trade in black turtlenecks, woolly socks and downcast skies for a pair of flip flops, shorts and a poolside lounge chair but, finances and schedules ruled out a quick trip to the tropics.  Thinking I could bump out of my funk with a cooking project, I checked out the contents of my refrigerator when lo and behold,  nestled among the endive, radicchio and celery lay four naval oranges.Just looking at those bright orange balls raised my spirits. It’s citrus season and nothing beats oranges for that  tart, yet sweet at the same time taste. In a flash, I cooked up a batch of caramel oranges, a super easy dessert- breakfast-snack that always brightens my outlook. I like this dish best when it has been in the refrigerator for a few hours. The brittle caramel melts and makes an orangey, caramelly sauce that you’ll want to lick off the plate. This time, for a little exotic zip, I added a pinch of ground cardamom seeds to the syrup right before drizzling. I really liked how it perfumed the caramel with a hint of eastern pizazz. So even though the sun hasn’t graced us with its presence for a few weeks, today I have the taste of sunshine in my mouth. I just might make it to March after all.

Kitchen Counter Point: Cardamom is a warm, pungent spice used in sweet and savory Indian curries and some Scandinavian breads. You will find it in a few different forms at the grocery store. It can be bought as 1) pods, 2) whole seeds, and 3) ground. I like to buy it as whole seeds and crush or grind them just before using. That way the flavor is at its peak. Though you can buy the pods and crush them to free the seeds, it is a bit of a bother  to separate the seeds from the crumbled pod.

Serves 4

4 naval oranges
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons water
1/4 teaspoon cardamom seeds, ground in a mortar and pestle or a pinch of ground

Peel the oranges by cutting off the top and bottom to make them flat and then slicing around the circumference of the orange with a sharp knife, cutting away the peel and white pith. Then cut the orange crosswise into about 6 sections and arrange them on a heat-proof platter.

Add the sugar and water to a saucepan and swirl over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Do not stir. Turn up the heat to high and bring to a boil. Once the syrup is boiling, cook it for about 4 minutes or until the syrup has browned to a rich caramel color. It will be very bubbly. Watch it closely as there is less than  a minute between sublime and burned. Add the cardamom seeds and swirl them to combine and drizzle the syrup over the oranges. Serve immediately or let sit in the refrigerator for a few hours so that the oranges macerate and make a caramel syrup.

When contemplating dessert for a family celebration, chocolate, much like cream, rises to the top. Of course it makes the chocoholics happy and it’s a good idea to give them a  fix every now and then, but even non-dessert lovers can become enthused at the sight of a majestic, rich with butter and sour cream chocolate cake. So, for my husband Rick’s birthday last week, I decided to go for chocolate and adapt an already chocolatey rich cake recipe with enough chocolate to make even the most ardent dessert lovers cry uncle. To make matters even more interesting, I topped off the 8 ounces of unsweetened chocolate in this cake with a touch of “likker” in the form of Southern Comfort which makes this chocolate tower of a cake even more luscious.

The cake was a hit with an added bonus. The intense flames from the 55 burning candles melted the bittersweet chocolate garnish a bit…which wasn’t a bad thing at all.

Kitchen Counter Point: The next time you ice a cake, borrow a technique from the pros that will keep your cake stand clean and neat. Cut triangles of parchment paper and slide the long side of each piece under the bottom cake layer so that the cake stand is covered. Use an offset spatula to ice the cake. It is ever so much easier to use than a butter knife and you will love, love, love your new tool. Turn out a large blob of icing on top of the cake and smooth it to the edges, leaving a thick layer of icing extending over the perimeter of the cake. Smooth the excess icing down the sides adding more icing to cover. When finished, pull the parchment away from the cake, et voila, a picture perfect cake.

Makes 1 double layer 9-inch cake serving 12

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cocoa powder
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1/4 cup unsalted butter
2 cups sugar
1 cup sour cream
2 eggs, room temperature
3/4 cup milk
2 tablespoons Southern Comfort
2 teaspoons vanilla

4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1/2 cup unsalted butter
5 cups confectioners sugar
1/2 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon Southern Comfort
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 teaspoon salt
One 4-ounce bar bittersweet chocolate, chopped for garnish

Preheat oven to 350ºF

Two 9-inch round metal cake pans greased and lined with greased and floured parchment paper

In a large bowl combine the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, salt and baking soda and whisk until combined.

In a medium heat proof bowl set over simmering water, melt the chocolate and butter, stirring until completely melted. Remove the bowl from the pan and set aside to cool.

In a mixer bowl, combine the sugar and sour cream and beat on medium until combined. Add the eggs one at a time and mix until blended. Add the milk, Southern Comfort, vanilla and melted chocolate mixture and blend.

Add the dry ingredients by the cupful and mix on low speed until incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and mix for 2 minutes or until the batter is smooth.

Divide the batter among the prepared pans and smooth the tops. Bake in the middle of the preheated oven for about 35 to 40 minutes, or until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean and the edges of the cake begin to pull away from the sides of the pan. Let cool on racks for about 5 minutes, then invert onto racks, peel off paper and let cool completely.

To prepare the frosting, melt the chocolate and butter in a large heatproof bowl over simmering water, stirring until melted. Remove from the heat and add the confectioners sugar, sour cream, Southern Comfort, vanilla and salt. Beat on medium speed until glossy, adding more confectioner’s sugar if too thin or milk if too thick a spreading consistency.

To assemble, place one cake layer, flat side up on a cake stand and spread approximately 1 cup of the frosting over the top. Add the remaining cake layer, flat side up, and spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides of the cake. Sprinkle the chocolate over the top. The cake keeps covered at room temperature for 2 days.

I must admit that I have a bit of an addiction for fruity, berry based desserts. It comes as no surprise to my family, who’ve been noshing on crisps of this sort all summer long. Desserts of this type are even better when you can buy locally grown fruit which has had the chance to ripen on the tree or bush, soaking up all that sun kissed summer has to offer.

This is my favorite rendition of the classic crisp. I also have an affliction (I mean affection) for plums, peaches and apricots, though you must peel the furrier fruits before tossing with the berries. My trademark is the addition of the lemon verbena, which I always plant in the spring so that I have it on hand throughout the summer and fall. It is one of my favorite herbs and once you try it, I hope it will become one of yours as well. Not to worry if you can’t find it at this point, just be sure to plant it next year!

Kitchen Counter Point: Let’s talk about lemon verbena for a moment. It grows with no encouragement whatsoever along with the basil, thyme and chives, so it is very easy to keep up with. The leaves are very fragrant in a lemony floral kind of way. Other uses for it are to 1) add to a food processor with granulated sugar and process to make lemon verbena sugar which is great on shortbread or sugar cookies, 2) minced and added to blueberry muffins, pound cake or pancakes, 3) instead of basil or cilantro, try adding lemon verbena to salsas and summer compotes. These are just a few of the uses, not to mention, just picking a few sprigs to add to small bouquets. Their long pointy leaves are pretty and when brushed, give off that heavenly, lemonly smell.

 Serves 8

1 cup brown sugar, divided use
1-1/2 cups regular oats
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, divided use
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
4 nectarines, pitted and each cut into about 8 sections
8 ounces blueberries
6 ounces blackberries
6 ounces raspberries
2 tablespoons chopped lemon verbena, optional
Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
Ice cream or whipped cream as an accompaniment if desired

Preheat oven to 400ºF.

In a medium bowl, combine the 1/2 cup brown sugar, oats, 1/4 cup flour, butter, cinnamon and salt. Mix together with your fingers or a fork until well blended

In a large bowl combine the fruit and remaining 1/2 cup brown sugar (less if your fruit is at its peak of ripeness), 3 tablespoons flour, lemon verbena if using, lemon zest and juice. Toss gently to combine. Transfer to a buttered 2 quart baking dish. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit. Bake in the preheated oven for 40 minutes or until the fruit is bubbly and the topping is crisp. Remove from the oven and cool for 15 minutes before serving warm with ice cream or whipped cream.

Today’s culinary history lesson (and listen up, there will be a quiz): Invented by the demoiselles Tatin over 100 years ago in their hotel-restaurant in the Lamotte Beuvron region near the Loire River, this rich upside down apple tart is a lesson in simplicity. As with many simple dishes, the quality of ingredients is tres importante. Since it isn’t possible to find French apples at the local Stop and Shop, we’ve had to experiment with local varieties. We find the Granny Smiths to be the best apples for Tarte Tatin since they keep their shape and their tartness is a nice counterpoint to the sweet buttery caramel.

Once baked, the caramelized apples are flipped so that the crispy crust is on the bottom revealing the beautiful glazed fruit. Constructed of nothing more than apples, butter and sugar in a pastry-topped skillet, this tour de force is sure to become one of your family’s favorite desserts.

Serves 10

For the pastry
1-1/2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/3 cup ice water
Additional flour for rolling

16 Granny Smith apples (12 if they are large)
1/2 cup (1 stick) plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
Pinch salt

Crème fraîche or crème anglaise as garnish

To make the pastry in a stand mixer: Combine the flour, salt and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the paddle attachment, mix for 30 seconds on low speed. Turn the mixer to medium and mix until the butter is cut into the flour and only small lumps of butter remain, about 1 minute. Quickly add the ice water and when the dough begins to come together stop the machine. Remove it from the bowl and compress it into a disk with your hands. Wrap it in plastic and refrigerate for about 30 minutes to chill for easier rolling.

To make the pastry in a food processor: Combine the flour, salt and butter in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse the mixture 10 times until the butter is cut into the flour and only small lumps of butter remain. Quickly pulse in the ice water through the feed tube (about 4 pulses) and stop the machine. The dough will not have come together. Dump the pastry onto a counter top and using the heel of your hand, smear the dough out and away from you until it forms a cohesive mass. (A pastry scraper, dough knife or bench knife makes it easy to scrape it all together.) Shape and compress the dough into a disk, wrap it in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to chill for easier rolling.

While the dough is chilling, cut a thin slice from the bottom of each apple so that they will sit straight in the pan. Halve the apples lengthwise then core and peel them.

In a 10-or 11-inch skillet (about 3 qt.) with straight sides add the butter and heat over medium-high heat until melted. Sprinkle the sugar and salt over the butter and cook, stirring occasionally until the sugar begins to brown, about 4 minutes. Lower the heat and cook for 3 minutes after the sugar begins to brown stirring every now and then to ensure even caramelization. When the mixture becomes a deep golden caramel, remove it from the heat.

Carefully stand the apples flat side down around the outside of the pan (cut sides facing in) then fill in the center with the remaining apples so that the apples are as snug as possible. It may be necessary to cut some of the apples in half (quarters) so that they fit. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook for about 3 minutes. The apples will begin to give off some of their liquid, thinning the hard caramel. Using a turkey baster, baste the apples with the caramel. It will be thick at first, but will thin as the apples cook. Baste for about 10 minutes and add leftover apples cut into quarters to fill in spaces that open up as the apples soften.. Remove the pan from the heat.

Preheat an oven to 400 degrees F.

To roll out the pastry: Lightly flour a work surface with about 1 tablespoon of flour. Place the unwrapped disk of dough on top of the flour and dust the top of the disk with an additional tablespoon or so of flour. Roll the dough gently but firmly, picking it up after each roll and rotating it a quarter turn from 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock. This rotation keeps the dough from sticking and also helps to keep a round shape.

Roll the dough to about 14-inches in diameter and trim the round so that it is 2-inches larger than your cooking pan. Fold the dough in half and then into a quarter and transfer it to the skillet placing the folded point in the center of the apples. Quickly open the dough and fold the sides down between the apples and the pan. Cut vent holes in the top and bake on a sheet pan with sides (to catch any drips) in the preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until the pastry is brown and crisp.

Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 20 minutes before carefully inverting onto a large serving platter. Cut the tart at the table and serve warm with crème fraîche or crème anglaise.

Make-ahead: If you make the tart earlier in the day, it should be warmed in a 350 degree F. oven for about 20 minutes before serving. Turn the tart out right before service onto a serving platter.

Note: French apple pie or Tarte Tatin is so revered that there is actually a brotherhood founded to protect the dish from adaptations and promote its consumption. La Confrerie des Lichonneux de Tarte Tatin is dedicated to protect the original dish from being perverted by persons who want to put a dollop of ice cream on top of it. Their website is www.tarte-tatin.com/.

Tip: Though a simple dessert, this French apple pie is not uncomplicated. Browning the sugar and butter to the perfect color caramel is key. If you are using a dark skillet, spoon some of the caramel as it is cooking to get an idea of how dark it is. Too dark and your tart will be bitter. Too light and it will lack depth and richness.

Tip: The correct size skillet is important. We think a 10- or 11-inch skillet with straight sides works best. If you use a skillet with sloping sides (like a fry pan) the tart may not hold together when unmolded and look a bit messy on the sides but it will still taste great. Traditionally tarte tatin was made in cast iron pans. If you find an old seasoned cast iron pan with straight sides, by all means use it. It will cook your tarte tatin to perfection. Le Creuset also makes special tarte tatin pans that can be found in some cookware stores.

Those of us of a certain age (and you know who you are) remember the pineapple upside down cakes which appeared so often at mid-century get togethers. Topped with canned pineapple rounds and the ubiquitous maraschino cherry in the center, these cakes were colorful and somewhat visually appealing, and most of us hardly noticed the effects of the red dye #5.

Our fresh 21st century version of the upside down cake features plums, whose pink hue and sweet tart flavor makes this buttery, light cake a favorite for breakfast, dessert or that 3 o’clock pick me up with coffee. We usually make 2 cakes at a time because we know from experience that one cake isn’t enough to feed our hungry hoards. Look for plums that are somewhat firm and yield slightly to pressure. They will soften during the cooking process to tender tart sweetness.

Makes One 9-inch Cake

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup granulated sugar
3 plums, stoned and each cut into 12 slices
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Sweetened Whipped Cream (page xx) or ice cream as an accompaniment

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees F.

Cream the butter in the mixer bowl on medium speed. Add the sugar and continue to beat for another 3 minutes. Add the egg and grated lemon zest and beat for 1 minute longer.

Mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in another bowl and add the dry ingredients alternately with the buttermilk on slow, beating until the batter is smooth. Mix in the vanilla.

In a 9-inch cake pan melt the 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the 1/4-cup sugar and cook, stirring for about 2 minutes. Carefully remove the pan from the heat and lay down the plum slices in a decorative pattern working from the center to the outside, overlapping them slightly. Sprinkle with the lemon juice. Return the pan to the heat and cook undisturbed for another 4 minutes. Look for the juices to bubble up and around the plums.

Remove the pan from the heat and carefully and evenly add the batter to the pan covering the fruit. Try not to disturb the placement of the fruit slices. Bake the cake in the middle of the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes before inverting it onto a serving plate. Serve the cake warm or room temperature with the Sweetened Whipped Cream or ice cream as desired.

Nothing will snap you out of a Thanksgiving food coma quicker than Pumpkin Cheesecake. Well…that may not be true, but there are many other reasons to love this delicious culinary collision of pumpkin pie and creamy cheesecake. It also embodies all that we love about our favorite fall pie, but in a richer, tangier, colder and smoother way. The gingersnap crust adds zip, but if you want to take the flavor to another level try using Trader Joe Triple Ginger Gingersnaps. They contain little flecks of crystallized ginger and make the best gingersnap crust ever. Another bonus is that it serves 10 generously sized wedges, which may or may not be enough to satisfy your cheesecake yearnings.Serves 10

Crust:
2-1/4 cups ground gingersnap cookies
1-1/2 cups pecans, toasted and ground
1/4 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
Filling:
1-1/2 lbs cream cheese, room temperature
1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 15oz can solid pack pumpkin
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon lemon juice

4 large eggs

Boiling water

Preheat oven to 350°F
9-inch (23 cm) springform pan

In a medium bowl, mix together the gingersnaps, pecans and sugar. Add melted butter and stir until combined. Press crust mixture onto the bottom and 2- inches (5 cm) sides of the pan.

For Filling: In the mixer bowl, using the flat beater on Speed 4, beat cream cheese and sugar until light, about 1 minute, stopping once to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add pumpkin, cream, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, allspice and salt to mixture and beat until well combined. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating just until combined, scraping down the sides of bowl in between each egg.

Line the outside of the springform pan with a double layer of foil that covers up to the top edge of the pan. Set the pan inside the roasting pan and pour filling into crust (filling will almost fill pan). Set the roasting pan in the oven and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the springform. Bake until cheesecake puffs around the edges, and center moves only slightly when pan is shaken, about 1-1/2 hours. Run small sharp knife around cake pan sides to loosen cheesecake. Transfer the entire roasting pan to rack and cool 45 minutes. Remove the pan from the water and continue to cool until room temperature, about 2 hours. Cover tightly and refrigerate overnight. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Note: To help prevent the top from cracking, it’s important to loosen the cake sides from the pan immediately after removing from oven. This allows the cake to contract without sticking to the sides which would pull on the top and create cracks.