While I’ll admit that March finds many people drinking green beer and wearing often disturbing green attire, my attention turns to one of my favorite and seasonally color appropriate dishes, Green Posole with Pork and Chicken.
Posole is a Mexican soup with meltingly tender pieces of shredded pork and chicken and earthy hominy, so thick in the spicy, tomatillo and chile flavored broth that calling this a soup is a stretch. It lands somewhere between the soup and stew category, which makes it a wonderful dish to turn to for hearty appetites.
Growing up in San Diego, with it’s rich heritage of wonderful Mexican food, you’d think this dish would have been a childhood staple, along with my mothers chile rellenos and tacos, but I had never tried posole until I took a trip through New Mexico, where it’s a culinary staple, with my husband many years ago. What I love most about the dish is it’s deeply comforting quality. There is something so soul-satisfying about hominy, which will come as no surprise to my Southern friends who’ve been enjoying this ingredient in it’s many forms forever. My Texas grandma loved it and served it often, which probably accounts for my attraction to it. In posole it finds a wonderful home, nestled in with the shards of meat and makes the perfect foil to the acidic tomatillos and spicy chiles.
Kitchen Counter Point: Because in many parts of the country tomatillos remain a mystery to the home cook, they are often left in the grocery store produce section way past their prime. The husk can often hide a bad tomatillo, so when your shopping for them look for fresh looking husks that aren’t discolored and give it a squeeze to make sure it’s firm and not squishy.

Green Posole with Pork and Chicken

Serves 8

2 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 teaspoon salt, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds lean pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch chunks
2 pounds skinless chicken thighs
1 white onion, chopped
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican), crumbled
10 cups chicken stock
1 pound tomatillos, husked
2 serrano chiles
1/2 cup hulled (green) pumpkin seeds, toasted
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 15 ounce cans white hominy, rinsed and drained
Avocado, diced
Cilantro leaves
Chopped sweet onion
Lime wedges

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Season the pork and chicken with 1 teaspoon of salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Working in 2 batches, so that you don’t overcrowd the pan, brown the meat on all sides, about 5 minutes a side. Remove the meat as you brown it and set it on a plate. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat.

Lower the heat to medium and add the onion to the pot. Cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and oregano and cook for another minute. Add the pork, chicken and chicken stock and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or until the pork and chicken are tender. Skim as much fat as possible from the top. Remove the pork and chicken from the broth and cool.

Meanwhile, place the tomatillos and serranos in a small baking dish under a preheated broiler. Broil until the tomatillos and chiles are blackened in spots, turn over and blacken in spots on the other side. Let them cool and remove and discard the stems from both the tomatillos and chiles. Transfer to a blender with the 1/2 cup of the liquid from the soup, pumpkin seeds, and cilantro. Blend until smooth.

When the meat is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and bones from the chicken and shred both chicken and pork into bite-sized pieces.

Strain the broth and discard the solids and return the stock to the soup pot. Add the tomatillo-pumpkin seed mixture and the hominy and return to a gentle simmer over low heat. Cook for about 20 minutes to allow the flavors to blend. Add the chicken, pork and remaining salt back into the pot and cook for 5 minutes.

Ladle into heated bowls and serve with the avocado, cilantro, onion and lime wedges.

This morning the view outside my kitchen window resembled a black and white photograph…white snow, black tree silhouettes and a gray sky. Though that isn’t always such a bad thing, today I felt the need to inject a little color into my life. I was in the mood to trade in black turtlenecks, woolly socks and downcast skies for a pair of flip flops, shorts and a poolside lounge chair but, finances and schedules ruled out a quick trip to the tropics.  Thinking I could bump out of my funk with a cooking project, I checked out the contents of my refrigerator when lo and behold,  nestled among the endive, radicchio and celery lay four naval oranges.Just looking at those bright orange balls raised my spirits. It’s citrus season and nothing beats oranges for that  tart, yet sweet at the same time taste. In a flash, I cooked up a batch of caramel oranges, a super easy dessert- breakfast-snack that always brightens my outlook. I like this dish best when it has been in the refrigerator for a few hours. The brittle caramel melts and makes an orangey, caramelly sauce that you’ll want to lick off the plate. This time, for a little exotic zip, I added a pinch of ground cardamom seeds to the syrup right before drizzling. I really liked how it perfumed the caramel with a hint of eastern pizazz. So even though the sun hasn’t graced us with its presence for a few weeks, today I have the taste of sunshine in my mouth. I just might make it to March after all.

Kitchen Counter Point: Cardamom is a warm, pungent spice used in sweet and savory Indian curries and some Scandinavian breads. You will find it in a few different forms at the grocery store. It can be bought as 1) pods, 2) whole seeds, and 3) ground. I like to buy it as whole seeds and crush or grind them just before using. That way the flavor is at its peak. Though you can buy the pods and crush them to free the seeds, it is a bit of a bother  to separate the seeds from the crumbled pod.

Serves 4

4 naval oranges
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons water
1/4 teaspoon cardamom seeds, ground in a mortar and pestle or a pinch of ground

Peel the oranges by cutting off the top and bottom to make them flat and then slicing around the circumference of the orange with a sharp knife, cutting away the peel and white pith. Then cut the orange crosswise into about 6 sections and arrange them on a heat-proof platter.

Add the sugar and water to a saucepan and swirl over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Do not stir. Turn up the heat to high and bring to a boil. Once the syrup is boiling, cook it for about 4 minutes or until the syrup has browned to a rich caramel color. It will be very bubbly. Watch it closely as there is less than  a minute between sublime and burned. Add the cardamom seeds and swirl them to combine and drizzle the syrup over the oranges. Serve immediately or let sit in the refrigerator for a few hours so that the oranges macerate and make a caramel syrup.

 

 What is it about cold weather that makes you want to eat pork more than a few times a week? In the last month  we’ve eaten pig in a choucroute, braised with tomatoes and stuffed into marvelous little agnolotti, braised in milk, braised in coconut milk and rice vinegar (way tasty), as sausage in jambalaya, coffee rubbed tenderloin and numerous renditions of sautéed pork chops. To be honest, I haven’t tired of it yet. There are many theories about our urge to pimp the pig in the desolate days of winter, but to me it’s all about that sweet, tender meat that goes so well with winter vegetables. Hearty greens like collards and kale, the assorted hard squashes, sweet potatoes and apples, parsnips and rutabagas are natural partners with pork and make for a delicious week-night dinner for family or even a weekend meal for company.

In this recipe, I’ve paired the pork chops with two of my favorite go withs, sweet potatoes and Ginger Crisp apples. The appley mustard sauce you make at the end couldn’t be easier and moistens the pork, tying all the flavors together. Because pork chops can be a little on the dry side, I recommend that you brine them in this salty, sweet mixture for at least 2 hours. It really does increase  flavor and moisture, but if you don’t have the time, just go ahead and cook the pork chops un-brined. They will still be delicious. I’ve also given you an easy clean up by structuring this recipe so that you can cook the meat, potatoes and apples in one pan. Don’t bother to thank me. You’re welcome.

Kitchen Counter Point: Because center cut pork chops are a lean cut of meat, they are easily dried out by overcooking. But not to worry! Here are a few tips that will help you to cook juicy, flavorful pork chops every time.

1) Brine the pork as I direct in this recipe. The salty-mapley-garlicky-peppery-rosemary water creeps into the meat, flavoring and hydrating it so that when cooked, you end up with seasoned, moist meat.

2) Buy and cook the pork chop on the bone. It may take a few more minutes of cooking, but the bone gives up flavor and moisture to the surrounding meat.

3) Try not to over-cook the pork. Our moms and grandmothers cooked it to within an inch of being incinerated. Today’s pork is cleaner and leaner than grandma’s pig and should be cooked to an internal temp of about 147ºF. It will still be a bit rosy in the center.

4) Buy pork chops at least 3/4-inch thick because the thicker cut insulates the center so that juices don’t completely cook away.   

 Serves 4

2 cups water
1/3 cup pure maple syrup
1/4 cup kosher salt
4 cloves of garlic, smashed (no need to peel)
2 bay leaves
1 sprig rosemary, crushed
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed

3 cups ice
4 center-cut, loin pork chops on the bone, about 3/4-inch thick

2 tablespoons olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
2 sweet potatoes, thinly sliced
2 Ginger Crisp or other sweet-tart apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
1 cup apple cider or juice, plus more if needed
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced (optional)

Heat the water in a medium saucepan with the syrup, salt, garlic, bay leaves, rosemary and black peppercorns. When the water simmers, remove it from the heat and let sit for 5 minutes. Pour the brine into 2-qt. heat-proof bowl. Add the ice and when the mixture has cooled, add the pork chops to the bowl, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24.

One hour before cooking, remove the pork chops from the brine and pat them dry. Lightly pepper them and let sit at room temperature until ready to cook.

Heat a large, heavy skillet with a lid over medium heat and add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the pork chops (they should sizzle) and cook for about 5 minutes on the first side, turn them over and cook on the other side for about 3 minutes. They will not be cooked through at this point but should be nicely browned.

Transfer the pork chops to a plate and add the potatoes, apples, cider, cinnamon and salt to the hot pan and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook the potatoes for 13 minutes or until a little resistant when pierced with a fork.

Return the pork chops to the pan, nestle them into the potatoes, cover and cook for another 5 minutes or until the meat is cooked through and the potatoes are tender.

Transfer the pork chop, potato and apple to a plate with a slotted spoon and cover with foil, leaving the liquid in the pan. If the potatoes have absorbed the liquid, add 1/4 cup extra cider to the pan and heat. Stir in the mustard with a fork and taste the sauce for seasoning adding more pepper if desired.

Ladle the sauce over the meat and potatoes and garnish with the parsley if using. Serve hot.

Kitchen Counter Point: It is a good idea to begin making this chile a day or more ahead. It takes a good 3 hours to cook the short ribs to the falling off the bone stage and an overnight in the frig allows the flavors to mellow and balance. I love to serve dishes like this for company or even a busy weekend family dinner because I can focus on the many other facets of hosting or visiting with friends and family instead of slaving to pull dinner together.  If, like my daughter, you’re transporting this dish to someone else’s house for a party and don’t want to stand over the stove for 15 minutes,  turn the polenta into polenta cakes. Just cook the polenta a little longer than the recipe directs and pour it into a buttered 8-inch square pan. Let it cool and firm up then chill. Cut it into 6 squares and brown the polenta cakes in a few tablespoons of butter. Transfer the cakes to a sheet pan and keep at room temperature for a few hours or refrigerate overnight and just reheat in a 350ºF oven when you get to the party. Their crispy outsides and creamy interiors will be sure to sway even the most ardent traditional chile fan.

Serves 6

4 dried ancho chiles, about 2 ounces, seeded, ribbed and torn into pieces (see tip)
1 cup boiling water
2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo (see tip)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 15-oz can Ro-Tel diced tomatoes (see tip)
4 slices bacon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 lbs beef short ribs
2 medium onions or 1 large
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons chile powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground clove
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
12 oz pale ale or beer
2 tablespoons cilantro, minced

Creamy polenta (recipe follows)

In a medium bowl, soak the ancho chiles in the cup of boiling water for 20 minutes or until softened. Weight the chiles down with a small saucer if the water doesn’t cover.

In a blender jar, add the ancho chiles and liquid, chipotle, tomato paste, honey and balsamic vinegar. Blend until smooth. Add the can of diced tomatoes and reserve.

In a large Dutch oven over medium heat, cook the bacon until it has rendered its fat and is crispy. Remove the bacon and transfer to a plate.

Pat the short ribs dry and salt and pepper them.  Saute half of them in the bacon fat over medium-high heat until browned on all sides, about 9 minutes. Transfer to a plate and brown the second batch and transfering them to the plate as well . Turn the heat down if the bottom of the pan begins to over brown or turn black.

Pour off all but a few tablespoons of the remaining fat and sauté the onion, red pepper and garlic until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the chile powder, cumin, salt, coriander, paprika, pepper, clove and cinnamon and cook for another 3 minutes. Add the chile-tomato mixture and cook for 2 minutes or until it simmers. Add the beer and short ribs and bring back to a simmer again. Cover, reduce the heat and cook at a low simmer for 3 hours or until the ribs are tender and falling off the bone.

When the ribs are done cooking, remove the meat from the braising liquid, cool and tear it into shreds. Discard the bones.

Degrease the sauce in the pan with a large spoon and discard it (there will be lots of grease floating on top). Bring the sauce up to a simmer and cook it for about 5 minutes or until it reduces somewhat. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt, pepper, balsamic, chipotle or honey. Return the meat to the pan and reheat. Serve the chile over creamy polenta and garnish with the cilantro and reserved bacon, crumbled.

Creamy Polenta

4 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup yellow cornmeal, preferably stone ground
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

In a large saucepan, bring the water and salt to a boil over medium heat. Whisk in the cornmeal in a steady stream and continue to whisk for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat and stir with a wooden spoon every now and then until thickened, about 15 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream and pepper and adjust the seasoning to taste with more salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Tip: Ancho chiles are dried poblano chiles. They are brownish-black and wrinkled (see photo) and should be pliable and leathery. They’re mild to medium-hot and provide a sweet chile flavor to adobo sauce, enchilada sauce and commercial chile powders. The chipotle is a smoked jalapeno which has a medium heat. They can be found dried or canned and packed in adobo which is a spicy, vinegary tomato based sauce in the Mexican section (freeze the remaining peppers to use at another time). Ro-Tel is a diced tomato product with green chiles which you might find in the Mexican section as well. If you can’t locate it, just substitute a similar sized can of Mexican-style diced tomatoes.

Serves 6

1 lb beef stew meat, well trimmed 500g
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp olive oil, divided 45 mL
1-1/2 cups red wine 375 mL
1/2 tsp dried thyme 2 mL
6 cups beef broth 1.5 L
6 large onions, cut into 1/4-inch (.5 cm) slices 6
4 tbsp balsamic vinegar, divided 50 mL
3/4 cup cream 175 mL

1. Season the meat with salt and pepper. In a large pot, heat 1 tbsp of the oil over medium-high heat. Working in two batches, add the meat to the pan, making sure not to overcrowd. Brown the meat well on all sides. Remove the meat and deglaze the pan with the red wine, scraping the bottom to release all the browned bits.
2. Lower the heat and add the beef, thyme and broth to the pot. Simmer for about 1-1/2 hours or until the meat is tender. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon, reserving broth. Discard any fat and gristle and shred the meat into 1/2-inch (1 cm) pieces.
3. While the beef is cooking, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Arrange the onions on a large baking sheet. Drizzle with remaining oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Roast the onions for 45-55 minutes or until deeply browned. Add 3 tbsp (45 mL) balsamic vinegar and toss to coat. Continue to roast, stirring occasionally, until the onions are dark brown and glazed.
4. Add the onions to the soup, along with the cream and remaining vinegar. Simmer for 5 minutes to allow the flavors to blend. Reseason if necessary with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve.
Creamy Three Onion Soup with Crispy Shallots

Serves 6

3 tbsp butter 45 mL
3 medium leeks, cleaned and sliced thinly (white and pale green part only) 3
2 medium yellow onions, sliced thinly 2
2 garlic cloves, minced 2
4 cups beef broth 1 L
1 cup water 250 mL
4 sprigs thyme 4
1 cup heavy cream 250 mL
2 tbsp red wine vinegar 30 mL
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Crispy Shallots (see below)

1. Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the leeks, onions and garlic. Sauté until they are brown, about 15 minutes. Add the broth, water and thyme and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat and simmer for 30-40 minutes. Remove the thyme sprigs and process the soup with an immersion blender, food processor or blender until the soup is smooth. Return to the pan and stir in cream, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Heat thoroughly, but do not bring to a boil.
Ladle into serving bowls and top with 1 or 2 croutons.

Crispy Shallots
Makes enough to garnish six servings

6 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
1-1/2 cups vegetable oil
Salt
Heat oil in a medium saucepan over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then fry shallots in 2 batches, stirring frequently and being careful not to burn, until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove shallots with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt immediately.

Chicken, Pinto Beans and Green Chile Soup

Serves 8

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground coriander
2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
5 cups low sodium chicken broth
2 (4 ounce) cans diced green chiles
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
3 cups shredded cooked chicken
2 (16-ounce) cans pinto beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese
1/2 cup sour cream

Heat the oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes or until softened. Add garlic, oregano, coriander, cumin and cayenne to pan; sauté 2 minutes more. Stir in tomatoes, chicken broth, green chiles, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, and simmer 20 minutes. Add chicken and beans; cook 5 minutes or until thoroughly heated. Taste and reseason with salt if necessary. Ladle into bowls: top with a little grated cheese and sour cream.
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Broccoli, Bacon and Cheddar Chowder
Picture a ski chalet, four feet of fresh powder, brilliant sunshine and lots of hungry skiers. You’re the hero of the day because you’ve made this soul warming soup.
Serves 6
8 slices bacon, chopped 8
2 tbsp unsalted butter 25 mL
1 onion, finely chopped 1
2 tbsp all-purpose flour 25 mL
1/2 tsp salt 2 mL
Dash cayenne pepper Dash
3 cups milk 750 mL
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock 500 mL
12 oz red skinned potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm), diced 375 g
2 cups cheddar cheese, shredded 500 mL
1 tbsp all-purpose flour 15 mL
1 tsp hot pepper sauce, if desired 5 mL
2 10 oz (300 g) frozen box chopped broccoli, thawed 2
1. Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and transfer to a paper towel lined plate and reserve. Pour off all but 2 tbsp (25 mL) of the fat.
2. Add the butter and onion and cook for 6 minutes or until softened. Add the flour and cook, stirring for another 2 minutes or until foamy.
2. Whisk in the salt, cayenne pepper, milk and chicken stock and cook the mixture until it becomes smooth and creamy, about 3 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook for 10-15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.
3. In a bowl, toss the cheddar with the flour to coat.
3. Stir in the cheese, a handful at a time, whisking after each addition until smooth. Add in the hot pepper sauce if using. Add the thawed broccoli and stir to heat. Do not boil. Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
4. Ladle the soup into heated bowls and garnish with the reserved bacon.
Garden Vegetable Soup
No soup cookbook would be complete without a vegetable soup recipe. That said, we encourage you to forget the recipe and use whatever is in season, on sale, or just hanging out in your fridge. Feel free to make this soup your own, just keep in mind that heartier vegetables should go in first, so they can cook longer, and more tender vegetables should go in last to avoid mushy veggie syndrome.
Serves 6-8
2 tbsp unsalted butter 25 mL
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 15 mL
1 medium onion, chopped 1
6 cups chicken or vegetable stock 1.5 L
1 28 oz (794 g) can chopped tomatoes
2 cups carrots, sliced 1/4-inch thick 500 mL
2 cups fresh green beans, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) pieces 500g
2 cups potatoes, peeled and diced 500 mL
2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels 500 mL
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 50 mL
Salt and pepper, to taste
1. In a large pot, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the stock and tomatoes, carrots and potatoes and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the green beans and cook for 5 minutes. Then add the corn and cook for another 5 minutes or until the vegetables are just tender. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper.
2. Ladle into heated serving bowls.
Variation: Light soups like this can be made into more of a meal with the additions of either Wild Mushroom Risotto Cakes (page xxx), Meatballs (page xxx) or something as quick and easy as purchased crab cakes.

Along with the iced sugar cookies, rugulach, gingerbread and snowballs, these Bavarian treats yell “Look at me” on the cookie tray. The warm spices of cinnamon and clove pop with flavor, not to mention the fruity raspberry jam’s tart bite. They take a little time to make, but that’s part of what makes them special. Everyone who eats one knows that they are biting into something that was baked with love. I usually place them around the edges of the cookie tray because they really stand out with that snowy covering of powdered sugar. The dough freezes really well, so make as many as you want and then tuck the remaining dough away for another time. Not just for Christmas, they’d be pretty fabulous with a cup of coffee in January or February as well. Happy Holidays!

 Kitchen Counter Point: Rolling the dough between sheets of plastic means that you can re-roll the scraps over and over again. Rolling the dough in flour toughens it so you usually can’t re-roll scraps more than 1 or 2 times. It also helps to make cleaner cuts with no sticking if you dunk the cutter into flour once in a while. I like to use a decorative round cutter for the tops. It just makes them look a little more special. Just bake them separately from the solid rounds because they cook a little faster. To make the sugar topping look its best, use a strainer filled with powdered sugar to dust the tops of the cookies.

Makes about 3 dozen cookies

2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cloves
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup powdered sugar
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg
1 cup finely ground almonds
1/2 cup seedless raspberry jam
Additional powdered sugar

In a small bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon, cloves and salt. Wisk to blend.

Beat the powdered sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg and add the dry ingredients by the cupful. Stir in the almonds.

Divide the dough in half and roll it out to about 1/8-inch thickness between 2 sheets of plastic wrap. Chill on a cookie sheet until firm, about 20 minutes. Cut out rounds with a 2-inch round cookie cutter and cut the center out of half the rounds with a 3/4-inch round cutter. Re-roll the scraps and cut out more in the same manner.

Preheat oven to 350ºF

Bake on parchment lined sheet pans for 10 to 12 minutes or until lightly golden. Cool on wire racks and spread the rounds with raspberry jam. Top with a ring and sprinkle powdered sugar over all.

Some dishes are just naturally jolly, and this buttery, flaky, cheesy treat certainly fits into that category. Phyllo dough, buttered and wrapped around small bites of gooey brie and a dollop of dried apricots, chopped pistachios held together with apricot preserves are baked until golden brown and crispy and served with an easy dipping sauce made of reduced apricot nectar and rum. These little treasures are just the thing to make ahead and keep frozen in the likely event that unexpected company shows up on your door this holiday season.

Kitchen Counter Point- Make sure you thaw your frozen phyllo dough in the refrigerator.  If you thaw your phyllo on the counter, it tends to collect condensation inside the package which will make your dough too moist with a tendancy to tear as you pull the layers apart.

Makes 40 pieces

Dipping Sauce
1 cup apricot nectar
1/4 cup white rum

Filling
1/2 cup natural (green) pistachios , finely chopped
1/2 cup dried apricots, very finely chopped
1/3 cup apricot preserves
1/4 teaspoon salt

16 phyllo sheets
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted

8 ounces brie (rind removed) and cut into 40 ½-inch cubes

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

1. Cook the apricot nectar and rum in a medium saucepan over medium heat until the mixture has reduced to 1/4 cup. Remove the apricot sauce from the heat and reserve.

2. In a medium bowl, thoroughly combine the pistachios, apricots, preserves and salt.

3. Remove the phyllo from the package, unroll it onto a workspace and immediately cover it with a large sheet of plastic wrap. Cover the plastic wrap with a damp towel to weigh it down and prevent the air from drying out the pastry. You must work quickly when making the layers and recover the pastry as soon as possible.

4. Carefully remove one sheet of phyllo dough and lay it out on a work surface. Brush the sheet with the melted butter and lay a second sheet on top of the first. Brush again with the melted butter. With a pizza cutter or a sharp knife cut the phyllo into 5 3″x9″ strips. Lay 1 cheese cube, a teaspoon of apricot/pistachio mixture on the short end of each strip. Fold the phyllo over the filling to form a triangle or as you would fold a flag and continue to fold leaving a seam on the bottom of the triangle. Brush the triangle with melted butter and place it on a parchment lined baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining phyllo and filling leaving about 1/2-inch between triangles. (The triangles may be frozen at this point and then transferred to freezer bags for storage up to 3 weeks. They may be baked off frozen. Just add a few minutes to the baking time.)

5. Bake the triangles for 12 to 15 minutes or until golden. Serve hot or room temperature.

6. Serve the apricot nectar/rum mixture on the side as a dip.

Make-ahead: The phyllo bites can be assembled and frozen, uncooked in a single layer on a baking sheet. Once frozen, they can be transfered to a ziplock bag and kept for up to 1 month in the freezer. Bake as directed.

As good as a homemade croissant is, it can’t hold a candle to pain chocolat.  Wherever you stand on the chocolate issue, flaky pastry wrapped around a bar of bittersweet chocolate just can’t be wrong. Sadly, unless you happen to live near an authentic French bakery, you’ve probably never tasted a truly fine example of this simple, but heavenly pastry. But, never fear. Once you get the knack of making the dough, this treat is not complicated to make. The flavor and texture is just unbelievable when eaten warm from the oven when  the chocolate is oozey. At the first bite you will be transported to the Paris and the rive gauche, where pain chocolat is just a short stroll away no matter what direction you happen to be wandering. For best results, try eating one (or two if you’re feeling naughty) with a really good cup of French press coffee. Bon appétit.

Kitchen Counter Point: This recipe is a basic croissant dough. In baking circles it is called a laminated dough because the butter is actually sandwiched between many layers. When the pastry bakes, the butter melts and creates steam, which causes the layers to rise and form that delectable flaky texture. Though this dough does take some time to make, it is mostly just rising. cooling or hands off time. I usually begin the process a day ahead and make the pastry through all of the “turns”. After a night in the frig, the dough is ready to be rolled out and shaped into either pain chocolat or butter rolls, your choice.

Thanks to Julia Child and Simone Beck’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking for the inspiration of this recipe.

Makes 12 pain chocolat

1 1/2 cups cold milk warmed in a microwave oven for 45 seconds (bathwater temperature)
1 package (7 grams) dry yeast
2 tablespoons sugar
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 1/2 sticks cold, unsalted butter
Flour as needed
3- 4oz bars bittersweet chocolate, each broken into 4 pieces
1 large egg, beaten with 2 tablespoons water and a pinch of salt

To the warm milk add the yeast and sugar and let sit undisturbed for 5 minutes while assembling the flour and salt. The top of the milk will be foamy and the yeast activated. Stir to dissolve the sugar.

In a large bowl or stand mixer bowl, combine the flour and salt and stir to combine. Make a trough in the center of the flour and add the milk-yeast mixture. If using a stand mixer attach the paddle and mix on speed 2 until the dough is mixed and then change out the paddle to the dough hook and mix on the same speed for about 2 minutes or until it is smooth and elastic. If making the dough by hand, mix the dough until combined with a wooden spoon, turn it out onto a work surface and knead the dough by hand until smooth and elastic, about 4 minutes.

Place the dough in a large (12 cup) bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Set the dough to rise in a warm place (72 degrees) until tripled, about 3 hours. Punch the dough down to deflate it and let it rise again until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.

Deflate the dough by loosening up the sides with a rubber scraper, recover and place the dough in the refrigerator for a 30 minute chill. This will make the dough easier to work with.

Remove the chilled dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a floured surface. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out into a rectangle measuring 14x 20 inches.

Flour a work surface near the dough and lay out the cold butter with the two sticks side by side and the half stick across the top end to form what looks like two columns with a top. Flour the butter and with a rolling pin or a meat pounder,  pound the butter flat, trying to keep it stuck together in one piece until it measures roughly 12x 14-inches. Transfer the butter to the dough covering 2/3 of the dough, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. (It’s alright if the butter breaks into pieces, just piece it back together on the dough.)

The dough now needs to be folded in to 3 layers (like a business letter.) Start at the edge that isn’t covered in butter and fold the dough up and over to cover 1/2 of the butter covered dough. Pat down to secure it and fold over the remaining butter covered dough. You now have 3 layers of dough covering 2 layers of butter. This is called turn #1

To make second turn, position the dough so that an open end is facing you and roll out the dough with a rolling pin into a rectangle about 18x 10-inches. Brush any flour from the top of the dough with a dry pastry brush and fold it into 3rds as before. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and place it in a plastic zip lock bag. Store the dough in the refrigerator for 1 hour and then complete turns #3 and #4. Refrigerate again for another hour or let rest overnight to bake off the next day.

To shape the pain chocolat: About 2 hours before you need them, remove the dough from the refrigerator and let the unwrapped dough sit for 10 minutes to warm up slightly. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface into a rectangle about 30x 8-inches. Cut the dough in half crosswise and refrigerate the other half while you shape the first batch.

You now have a piece of dough about 15 x 8-inches. Cut in half lengthwise and refrigerate one half. Cut the remaining piece into 3 equal squares and roll them out so that they’re a little thinner. Lay down a piece of chocolate in the center and bring up the sides to cover. Pinch the seam closed and lay the pastry seam side down on a parchment lined sheet pan about 3-inches apart. Continue to shape the remaining pastries in the same manner. You will have 12 pastries total. It is important to keep the dough cold. If it starts to look oily or becomes difficult to work with, return it to the refrigerator to firm up.

Cover the pastry with a clean kitchen towel and let rise for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 425º F.

Brush the risen pastries with the egg wash and bake in the preheated oven for 15 to 18 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Tip: To make dinner rolls, cut the rolled out dough into about 20 triangles and roll the long end down to the tip. Or, just roll the dough into two logs, cut into 2-inch slices and bake the rolls on a parchment lined sheet pan or in greased muffin cups. Bake the same amount of time as for the pain chocolat.

Something to be very thankful for! Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!

Texas Pecan Pie

Makes One 9-inch pie

1 deep dish pie crust-unbaked
1 cup light brown sugar 250 mL
3 large eggs 3
1 cup light corn syrup 250 mL
3 tbsp unsalted butter, melted 45 mL
2 tsp vanilla extract 10 mL
1/4 tsp salt 1 mL
1 cup finely chopped pecans 250 mL
1 cup whole pecans 250 mL

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll the flaky pastry on floured work surface to 13-inch round. Transfer to 9-inch round cake pan with 1-1/2-inch high sides. Trim to align with pan edges. Freeze 15 minutes.
2. Combine the sugar, eggs, corn syrup, butter, vanilla and in a large bowl. Add in the chopped pecans and mix until just combined. Pour into crust. Arrange the whole pecans decoratively on the top.
3. Bake pie until set, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Transfer to rack; cool.

Don’t get me wrong, I love pie. I love to look at pie. I love to smell pie. I love to eat pie. What I don’t love is to make pie.  Even though I make a mighty fine pie. I know, this time of year, with Thanksgiving looming, being down on pie is culinary heresy. The fact is, it’s a mess. I don’t mind the filling, but the crust is another matter. Now please don’t send me your favorite recipe for pie pastry. I’m sure it’s great, but I already make a good pie pastry. I just hate to do it. It’s an added step that only creates havoc in my kitchen. Why can’t I be one of those adorably perky pastry chefs on TV that can toss their bench flour onto the work surface with such accuracy that nary a speck lands on anything but the intended area? (Those of you that know me are no doubt thinking “adorably perky’ was the deal breaker in that last sentence. On a good day I might be adorable, but perky? Hmmmm…) My bench flour ends up all over the floor, the dog, the kids, and yes, the counter, which then takes a ten step process to buff back to it’s previously shiny state. Not worth it…unless it’s a holiday (next week’s post-Texas Pecan Pie) or someone’s broken heart can only be consoled with something deliciously golden, round and flaky.

But what does one do when the need for something sweet, spicy and pumpkin arises? One turns to the incredibly easy and absolutely delectable Pumpkin Pecan Bar. This dense, moist and aromatically cakey bar is just the thing for when you feel the need to bring a little fall into your kitchen. And the best part is that they can be done in a snap. Packed with pumpkin, spices and crunchy pecans, these versatile treats are just as wonderful on a Thanksgiving table as they are in a lunchbox.

Kitchen Counter Point- When I’m baking with nuts, unless the nuts are going to sit right on top and be exposed to the full force of heat from the oven, as is the case with pecan pie, I always toast them first. This brings out the full flavor of the nut and takes whatever you’re baking to new heights.

Pumpkin Pecan Bars

Makes 24 bars

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4cup unsalted butter
1-2/3 cups granulated sugar
4 eggs
15-ounce can pure pumpkin
1-1/2 cups chopped pecans
Powdered sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease a 13-inch x 9-inch baking pan.

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, pumpkin pie spice, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

In a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar together until fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition. Add in the pumpkin and stir to combine. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the pumpkin mixture and mix at low speed until thoroughly combined and the batter is smooth. Spread the batter into prepared pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool completely. Cut into 24 squares. Dust lightly with the powdered sugar and serve.